How to install a heating element in a washing machine

If the washing machine has stopped heating the water and displays an error code related to the heating element, then the heating element is broken. The system will continue to run high-temperature cycles, but there will be little use - the degrees will remain at a minimum. The "idle operation" of the device will eventually affect the control board, which will freeze and go wrong. It is dangerous to operate a washing machine with a faulty heating element - it is necessary to replace it with a new one as soon as possible. Let's figure out how to dismantle and install a heating element in a washing machine.

We are changing the part

Before approaching the installation of the heating element, it is necessary to dismantle the old one. Most often, the heating element is located under the washing tank at the back of the machine, but on some models of washing machines, access to the element is only possible from the front. The location of the device does not affect the replacement procedure, since the basic algorithm remains unchanged. To get to the heating element, you need to go through several stages of disassembling the machine.

• Disconnection from utilities. First of all, the washing machine is “cut off” from the power supply, sewerage and water supply.
• Emptying the tank. You need to pry the door of the technical hatch with a screwdriver, put a container under it, unscrew the garbage filter and drain the water from the drum. As soon as the stream weakens, tilt the machine body forward - this way you can drain all the liquid remaining in the machine.
• Removing the panel. If the heating element is located on the front side, then the front wall of the housing is removed, if on the back side, then the rear one. As a rule, it is enough to unscrew several bolts along the perimeter of the shield and unhook it from the machine.
• Finding the heating element. It is located under the washing tank. The user can see its "feature" - a round plate with connected wires. There are three terminals: phase, zero and ground. A temperature sensor is also connected to the heater.
• Disconnecting the wiring. Release the phase and neutral terminals, loosen the ground nut and disconnect the other contacts.
• Checking for serviceability. It is recommended to check for a breakdown of the heating element before dismantling. Step-by-step instructions are given in the next section.

If the heater is operational, then disassembling the washing machine will not fix the problem - the cause of the failure lies elsewhere. You can try to test the electronics, but only if you have the appropriate knowledge, experience and equipment. It is better not to take risks and contact a service center for a full diagnosis. It is worth understanding that the cost of a new control module often reaches 50-60% of the price of the machine. At the same time, the board remains extremely vulnerable to external influences - one careless movement will lead to a "fatal outcome" of the part without the possibility of restoration. Is the heating element broken? Then we continue dismantling.

• Loosening the central nut. Loosen the ground screw, but not completely - by the length of the thread. After that, the nut needs to be sunk to "move" the rubber seal. The lining is responsible for the tightness of the heater and is pressed against the coil when tightening the fastener.
• Dismantling the heating element. The heater body is carefully pried up with a screwdriver along the entire perimeter and disconnected from the seal. If the rubber has stuck to the part, then you should not use force - it is better to treat the cuff with WD-40 and wait 15-20 minutes. After that, the element will easily leave the seat.

The next step is to buy a new heating element. Experts recommend taking the old heater with you to the store and presenting it to the sellers as a sample. Then the probability of error will be extremely low. By the way, choosing an analogue for replacement can be quite problematic: manufacturers produce many models that differ in size, design and shape. It is better to play it safe and focus on a specific example.

Having selected a new heating element, you can begin installing and connecting it:

• Clean the seat and seal from scale,
• Loosen the center nut,
• Fix the heating element in the grooves,
• Tighten the bolt,
• Connect the wiring (to connect it correctly, refer to the photos taken earlier).

After the replacement is complete, the washing machine is assembled and connected to the utilities, and then any high-temperature mode is started. You should wait 10-15 minutes, interrupt the program and check the functionality of the heating element. If the heater is warm and there are no leaks around it, then the repair was done correctly.

Check the old part

A new heating element is not cheap, so before replacing it, you need to make sure that the old one is faulty. For diagnostics, it is not necessary to dismantle the device from the housing - you can evaluate the performance of the element on site. The main thing is to prepare a multimeter or other device that can measure resistance and current.

To make sure that the heating element is in good working order, it is necessary to check it three times. First of all, to check for a break in the nichrome connection. More often, the heating element becomes unusable for this reason, since the spiral burns out, and the current stops "circulating" through the part. The guess is confirmed by "ringing":

• Turn on the multimeter to the “Resistance” mode,
• We connect the tester probes to the heating element terminals,
• We look at the display: if the arrow stops at “0”, the coil has burned out.

The second step is to check the heating element for breakdown, especially if there is no grounding in the living space. A “broken” heater is very dangerous - there is a current leak, the machine body is under voltage, which is fraught with electric shock. Most often, the washing machine “beats” slightly, but more deplorable outcomes are possible. Diagnostics in this case is as follows:

• One probe of the multimeter is connected to the terminal of the heating element, the second to the metal spiral,
• The value is set to "200 ohm",
• The result on the scoreboard is assessed (normally the arrow should stop at “0”, in case of deviations – replacement),
• The machine is connected to the network for a few seconds,
• The test is repeated (sometimes the breakdown is recorded only after the heating element has heated up).

The third stage is checking the power. This is not necessary, but it is indicative: this is how the degree of wear of the part is assessed. First, we calculate the current for a specific heater by dividing the nominal power by the voltage in the network. Thus, for a 1900 W heating element and a 220 V line, a minimum of 8 A is required. Having calculated the norm, we turn on the multimeter in the ammeter mode and take measurements. If the arrow points to the resulting number, then the device is in order, if the deviation is too large, critical wear has been recorded. In the latter case, the heater will not last long, it is better to replace it as soon as possible.

Why does the heating element break?

The heating element is considered one of the most vulnerable parts of a washing machine. Sometimes it can serve without failures for 10-15 years, but often it breaks down in the first year. There are many reasons for premature failure: from a manufacturing defect to violation of the operating conditions of the washing machine. Let's consider each malfunction in more detail.

• Factory defect. This also includes the use of low-quality spare parts by the manufacturer. Heating elements are usually not manufactured together with the machines but are purchased separately from suppliers. While some companies carefully control third-party parts, others often choose cheaper options.
• Power surges. The electricity supplied to the apartment is not always stable: problems at the stations or weather conditions lead to a sharp drop and increase in current. As a result, the heating element, the wires connected to it, or part of the control board burns out.
• Too hard water. Tap water in city apartments often has a high calcium concentration. At high temperatures, it hardens, settling on the heater body - scale occurs. Lime deposits impair heat transfer, reduce the efficiency of the device and provoke overheating of the nichrome spiral. As a result, the heating element cannot withstand and burns out.
• Overloading the heating element. Running several high-temperature cycles in a row also leads to overheating. It is recommended to let the machine rest for 15-30 minutes after every two "hot" programs.

If the old heating element is broken, you need to install a new one as soon as possible. Otherwise, not only the quality of washing will suffer, but also the equipment itself - the control board will freeze and fail.