Washing Machine Inlet Valve Repair

There are various symptoms that may indicate a faulty inlet valve. These include no or slow water intake into the tank, a puddle under the machine, and poor powder pickup from the dispenser. Let's figure out how to check and, if necessary, repair or replace the element yourself.

Getting ready to repair the valve

You can tell that your washing machine inlet valve needs repair by many signs. As already mentioned, this is a puddle under the body that forms immediately after starting the cycle, filling the tank when it is turned off, and, conversely, no water supply when the machine is running.

Before you start diagnosing the malfunction, be sure to take basic safety precautions: turn off the power to the washing machine, close the shut-off valve. You need to prepare a low basin and dry rags - they will come in handy for collecting spilled water.

After disconnecting the machine from the mains, move it away from the wall and drain the remaining liquid from the system through the waste filter. It is located at the bottom of the washing machine, in the right corner behind the decorative panel or service door. Place a basin under the machine body, unscrew the plug of the "waste" and collect the water in a container. After that, rinse the filter element and put it back in place.

The water supply valve is located just under the top cover of the washing machine. Remove the panel by unscrewing the two bolts that secure it. Next, you need to remove the part itself from the housing. During diagnostics and repairs, you will need:

• Phillips and slotted screwdrivers,
• Pliers,
• Pliers with sharp tips,
• Multimeter.

Removing the intake valve is very simple. You need to remove the wiring from it and unscrew the fixing screws. We will tell you what parts the element consists of, what is the general principle of its operation.

How does this element work?

The shut-off device in the automatic machine plays the role of a regular tap. Only it opens and closes not manually, but by a signal from the control module. When voltage is applied to the inlet valve, the coil is triggered, pulls in the rod, thereby ensuring the flow of water through the powder receptacle into the washing machine tank. The water supply valve consists of:

• Housings,
• Magnetic coil (there may be several of them, it depends on the type of device),
• Rod,
• Metal spring,
• Membrane,
• Mesh filters,
• Inserts into fittings,
• Sealing gasket,
• Fasteners.

After the user starts the washing program, the control module transmits voltage to the electric coil. It senses the impulses and pulls the rod. Due to this, the polyurethane membrane opens, and water from the pipes under high pressure begins to flow into the washing machine. When the tank is filled to the required level, the pressure switch reports this, and the "brain" of the machine turns off the current. The spring returns to its place; the inlet valve closes.

What happened to the inlet valve?

There may be several reasons why the valve stops functioning properly. To repair the element and return the machine to working order, you will have to find out what happened to the device. We will tell you about the main types of breakdowns that may occur.

• Filter clogging. Immediately after the inlet hose, at the inlet to the valve, there is a mesh that traps various impurities present in tap water. Over time, it gets clogged and begins to pass liquid poorly. The mesh can be removed without disassembling the machine. It is enough to grab its protrusion with pliers and pull it towards you. After washing, the filter is put back.
• Contamination of the membrane. The elastic rubber also moves up and down with each movement of the rod. If it gets dirty, it begins to fit loosely to the valve "seat" and let water through. To inspect the seal, you will have to disassemble the intake device. If there is rust on the surface, it must be cleaned off; if there are cracks, replace the gasket.
• Problems with the spring. Over time, the mechanism may break, the rod will stop moving up and down freely. Therefore, if the metal spiral is broken or deformed, it will have to be replaced.
• Cracks in the device body. Usually the valve has a plastic "shell" that can be damaged. If this happens, some water will flow out of the inlet element, getting onto the electrical components of the machine. Because of this, the washing machine can get an electric shock, which is fraught with a short circuit. In such a situation, it is necessary to replace the part as soon as possible.
• Often the plastic valve body cracks in machines that are kept in a cold room. At sub-zero temperatures, the water freezes and pushes apart the "shell" of the part. Also, the elastic membrane will no longer be able to hold the liquid after such a "freeze". Therefore, if after winter the country washing machine starts leaking, you need to replace the inlet device.

After the water supply valve is removed from the housing, it should be carefully inspected. If you notice that the electromagnetic coils are deformed, immediately replace the element; in this case, it is not worth repairing it. We will tell you how to diagnose the part.

Testing the valve

The performance of the inlet valve largely depends on the electromagnetic coil. It is the one that “activates” the rod, ensuring that water is poured into the system. It can be checked in two ways. The first and simplest is with a multimeter. You need to switch the tester to the resistance measurement mode and attach its probes to the coil contacts. If the water supply valve is working properly, the device screen will display a value within 2000-4000 Ohm.

The second method is to apply 220 V to the coil. If it is OK, a magnetic field will appear in it and the rod will be pulled upward (characteristic clicks will be heard). When the current is turned off, everything will return to its place. This method requires great caution, so it is better to use a multimeter.

We disassemble and repair the valve

As already mentioned, the valve is located under the top panel of the machine, in the left corner. To repair or replace the element, it is necessary to remove it from the housing. Therefore, you need to unscrew the two screws holding the "cover" of the washing machine. Next, the wiring is disconnected from the water supply valve. Before removing the terminals, it is better to take a photo of the connection diagram. This will help you avoid mistakes during reassembly. The element is disassembled as follows:

• Remove the coils by prying them from below with a slotted screwdriver,
• Use pliers to carefully pull out the rods. If the parts do not give in, you need to treat them with wd-40 spray lubricant and try again,
• Remove the metal rod with the membrane and spring.

The electromagnetic valve is disassembled - now you need to carefully inspect each of its components for defects, plaque, rust, blockages. Clean all the elements of the device and assemble it in the reverse order. If it is found that some of the valve components are broken or deformed, replace them yourself. For example, install a new membrane or spring. Some difficulties may arise with the selection of spare parts - but they can always be ordered online.

Having identified a non-repairable breakdown, it is better to buy and install a new inlet valve. For example, having noticed that the electromagnetic coil is deformed. In this case, it is not worth saving and risking the "health" of the machine's control module.