The switched off washing machine is buzzing

The switched off washing machine is buzzing

Sometimes users, having heard an incomprehensible noise, are surprised to find that it is the switched-off washing machine buzzing. Objectively, de-energized equipment cannot make any sounds, in any case, those of its components and elements powered by electricity. So what is the cause of the hum?

The CMA intake solenoid valve may make noise. What to do in such a situation, and how to fix the breakdown? Let's take a look at the nuances.

We are convinced that the inlet valve is to blame

When the switch is, off washing machine buzzes. The first thing you need to pay attention to is the inlet valve. If it is open, then water can flow even into a de-energized washer. For this reason, it is not difficult to make sure that the machine makes sounds.

When a shut-off valve is not provided, turn off the cold water supply at the entrance to the apartment. The pressure in the system will disappear, the liquid will not flow into the machine, and the equipment will stop buzzing. If the noise stops, then it's the solenoid valve.

You also need to listen for other extraneous noises, such as the sound of merging water. With the inlet valve open, the machine's tank will gradually fill up, and the excess will go into the sewer by gravity.

We remove the valve and get ready to check it.

How to diagnose a solenoid valve? First, turn off the machine and move it to the middle of the room, giving you free access to all sides of the case. Next, you need to drain the remaining water from the system. To do this, you will have to unscrew the garbage filter - it is located in the lower corner of the washer, behind a false panel or technical hatch.

Before unscrewing the filter, place a basin under the machine to collect water. Next, you can remove the trash can from the case. The rest of the liquid from the system will drain into the prepared container. Then clean the plastic coil and put it back in place.

The inlet valve is located under the top cover of the CMA. To remove the panel, unscrew the two screws holding it. After that, you will need to get the element itself. In the course of work, you will need the following tools:

  • A pair of screwdrivers (cross and slotted),
  • Pliers,
  • Pliers with pointed tips,
  • Multimeter.

Pulling the water supply valve out of the machine is easy. To do this, it is enough to disconnect the supply wiring and pipes from it (after loosening the clamps) and unscrew the fixing bolts. After that, the part is removed from the washer.

What breaks in the intake valve?

The solenoid valve may stop functioning properly for various reasons. You will have to find out why exactly there is a failure in the operation of the machine during the diagnostics. First, let's talk about the most common problems.

  • It clogged the filter element. Immediately after the inlet hose, in front of the inlet valve, there is a mesh to retain impurities contained in tap water. The filter becomes clogged, and the liquid begins to pass worse. To solve the problem, it is enough to clean the grid.
  • Dirt sticking to the valve diaphragm. The elastic band should move freely up and down when water is drawn into the washer. When it becomes covered with dirt, it ceases to fit snugly against the saddle, and because of this, the valve does not function correctly. To see the gasket, you will need to disassemble the intake device. If there are cracks, you must replace the seal, and plaque and rust will be enough to clean off.
  • Spring problems. Over time, many disrupt the operation of the valve mechanism - the stem will stop going up and down. A broken or deformed spring will need to be replaced.
  • Cracks in the valve body. The device's packaging is plastic, so it may well be damaged. If there are cracks in the shell, the water will flow inside the washer, getting to other nodes. For this reason, the automatic machine may start to beat with current, which threatens to short circuit. To solve the problem, you will have to replace the inlet element.

Often the body of the solenoid valve cracks in SMAs installed in unheated rooms. When the air temperature is below zero, the input freezes, expands and bursts the device's shell. In addition, the rubber membrane loses its properties after such a freeze. Therefore, if the washing machine begins to leak after wintering in the country, replace the inlet valve.

After removing the inlet from the washing machine body, inspect it carefully. If the magnetic coils are deformed, we must change the water supply valve; in this case, we cannot repair it. Next, we will tell you how to diagnose a part.

Is the valve coil intact?

The performance of the solenoid valve mainly depends on the condition of the coil. First, she starts the stem, providing water intake into the washer. Then, you can check it in two ways.

The easiest way to check the magnetic coil is with a multimeter. First, you must switch the device to resistance detection mode. Next, the tester probes are applied to the contacts of the coil.

The solenoid valves of automatic machines can also be of double or triple type. Then each coil is called individually with a multimeter. The resistance should be within the normal range.

Another, more complicated way is to supply 220 volts to the coil. Under this voltage, a magnetic field should form and pull the stem up (you will hear a characteristic click). When the current is turned off, the part will fall into place. It is necessary to check the device in this way with great care. Experts still recommend using a multimeter.

Let's try to fix the valve.

Usually, we can repair the inlet. The valve is easy to disassemble - even a newbie can handle such a task. In extreme cases, even if the work is unsuccessful, you can replace the part entirely - its cost is low.

To disassemble the water supply valve, you need the following:

  • Pry the coil with a thin screwdriver and remove it,
  • Remove the stems with pliers. If the pieces of iron do not give in, treat them with special WD-40 grease and try again after 15 minutes,
  • Pull out the metal rod with elastic membrane and spring.

What to do next? After disassembling the valve, inspect each component for damage. If the parts are just dirty, clean them and put them back.

If the spring, membrane or another part of the intake device is deformed, replace it with new ones. You can order similar parts online or search in specialized stores in your city.

If the failure is unrepairable, you must install a new solenoid valve. For example, in the event of a coil failure. The cost of the inlet device averages from 1000 to 3500, depending on the model of the washing machine.