Samsung washing machine does not turn on

Samsung washing machine does not turn on

The laundry is cancelled, and now all plans are disrupted, and all because the Samsung washing machine won’t turn on. There can really be many reasons for such an incident. But before you panic, you need to determine what happened. Of course, the damage can be significant, and the help of a specialist will be needed. Although, it is likely that you will be able to fix the problem yourself.

What do we check first?

Before rushing to disassemble the washing machine, it is necessary to eliminate external causes that could affect its operation. Let's start with the most common:

  • It is worth making sure that you are connected to the power supply and that there is electricity in the apartment.
  • Check if the outlet to which the washing machine is connected is working. This can be easily done by turning on any other electrical appliance. If it works, then everything is fine with the outlet.
  • If you are using an extension cord, make sure it is in good working order. Often a broken wire becomes the reason for a lack of electricity.
  • Availability of water. First, in the water supply, and then its access to the washing machine.
  • Pay attention to the weight of the loaded laundry. If the permissible limit is exceeded, the program will not start. And in some cases, the entire device may break down.
  • A faulty RCD can block operation. In modern apartments, electrical panels contain a residual current device. In the event of a short circuit, it cuts off the power supply to the apartment.
  • Is the hatch closed tightly enough? If the door is not pressed down enough and the lock does not click, the wash will not start.
  • Sometimes a washing machine breaks down due to a sudden voltage drop. And even when turned on, it does not function and nothing lights up on the display. Manufacturers recommend disconnecting the device from the power supply when not in use.
  • Very weak water pressure. The pump does not have enough power to collect a sufficient amount of washing liquid, and the machine turns off.
  • Pay attention to the entire connection system for household appliances. It happens that if the instructions for drain connections are violated, the entire washing machine does not function.

Diagnostics is greatly simplified if your machine is equipped with an electronic display. In this case, the combination of light bulbs will indicate a breakdown. You can decipher it by reading the meaning of the signal symbols in the instructions for the washing machine. Typically, specialists in household appliance repair shops can easily deal with failed parts.

Most likely breakdowns

So, we tested the device for external damage. Now let's look at the options for malfunctioning an automatic machine. We recommend preparing in advance the necessary tools that may be needed for this. First of all, of course, you will need a multimeter, a modern device that combines the functions of an ammeter and a voltmeter. It is used to measure current and resistance, some models determine temperature. The tester is always useful in the house, as it is indispensable when repairing any household appliances. And, of course, prepare screwdrivers and a wrench. Let's start looking at the individual elements of the washing machine so as not to miss a fault.

Let's diagnose the cord and plug. Pay attention to the integrity of the wire at the bend and connection to the plug. This is often where the breaking point occurs. Try to move the metal pins in the plug. They must remain motionless. These elements may also have internal damage. To check, call the tester. To do this, put the device in the “buzzer” mode, and a peculiar squeak will signal the serviceability of the part.

Let's move on to the hatch door. We know that in order for the washing machine to start the program, the hatch must be tightly closed. You can hear a click, which indicates a blockage. It is impossible to visually determine the serviceability of the lock if there is no mechanical damage. Let's use a multimeter. Let's check the resistance. Attention, the washing machine must be disconnected from electricity.

We open the door. Using the tester probes, we touch the opposite sides of the lock. And we look at the instrument panel. If there is no resistance, the indicator is 0; if there is resistance, it is infinity. We close the door. And we do the same actions. If the indicator has changed, then the lock is working; if not, then it will have to be dismantled and replaced. This process is not complicated. You can handle it yourself.

Let's test the power button. To do this, we will again use a multimeter and the ringing function, as indicated in step 1. If there is no signal, you will have to install a new button. A faulty FPS in the washing machine can also block its operation. This device is designed to filter electromagnetic interference from other household appliances. Located under the lid. Remove it and measure the voltage. To do this, switch the tester to the “voltage” mode. Use the clamps to touch different ends of the device and read the indicators on the display.

The most difficult item to check is the electronic module. Its repair is carried out only by a service center specialist, but diagnostics can be carried out independently. Remove the module; it is located behind the control panel in the washing machine. And ring each element with a tester, thus determining its performance.

The cause of equipment malfunction may be a clogged filter. To check it, unscrew the drain hose on the back wall of the washing machine. Take out the filter and wash it. We looked at the most common damage to a Samsung automatic machine. Most of them can be repaired yourself.

It's worth checking the heating element

We will describe in more detail how to check the serviceability of the heating element. The fact is that damage to the heating element blocks the operation of the entire washing machine. In the event of such a breakdown, the protective mechanism is triggered, as current leaks into the housing. The heating element may be broken. It is one of the most important parts of the device. To check it, you will have to spend time and dismantle the case. We hope that the detailed instructions will help you cope with the task. So what to do:

  • Position the washing machine so that all sides have easy access.
  • Get rid of any remaining liquid in the tank. To do this, remove the garbage filter.
  • Pull out the compartment intended for washing powder and other detergents.
  • There are bolts on the back of the housing. They must be unscrewed to remove the top panel.
  • There are mounting screws under the cuvette. We unscrew them. And on the right side there is another one that also needs to be removed. Total 3 screws.
  • Very carefully remove the control panel. We will not disconnect it completely.
  • There is a plastic clamp around the entire circumference of the hatch. Use a flat screwdriver to pry it up and carefully remove it.
  • Carefully insert the hatch cuff into the wash tub.
  • Using the same flathead screwdriver, carefully pry up the front trim panel. Take it out. This will give you access to the steel frame of the washing machine.
  • Now you can easily see 4 bolts at the bottom of the front wall. They need to be unscrewed.
  • Next, very carefully, so as not to damage the electrical wires, move the control panel to the top cover of the SMA. Now you need to unscrew 3 more screws that were under the panel. They secure the front of the body.

The most difficult manipulations to remove the heating element have already been completed. All that remains is to disconnect the front wall. To do this, it needs to be removed from the hooks on which it is held. Grasp the bottom ends of the panel and gently lift up.

Thus, access to the temperature sensor and heating element was opened. Now it is possible to check them for damage. Try to position the control panel as securely as possible; falling it will most likely lead to serious damage.

So, let's start diagnosing heating elements. For this we again need a multimeter. Put it in resistance measurement mode. We look at the tester’s performance by installing the first clamp on one contact, and the second on the other. If the display shows a value of 25-30 Ohms, then be sure that this heating element is working. If the indicator is 0 or 1, we conclude that the part does not work. Accordingly, the broken element must be replaced.

In the article, we examined in detail the possible options for damage to the SMA. We hope that the information received will help restore the functionality of your household appliances.