How to replace the control module in a washing machine?

Some parts of an automatic machine are easier to replace with new ones than to repair. For example, the main electronic module. Repair work can cost an amount equivalent to buying a working unit. You can replace the control module in a washing machine yourself. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions for action so as not to mix anything up. Let's figure out how to properly perform the upcoming work.

Search, removal and installation of the board

Most washing machines have an electronic module located behind the front panel. The location of the controller depends on the type of loading of the machine. The control unit is impressive in size, so it is difficult not to notice it.

You can remove the module yourself. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

• Turn off the power to the machine,
• Close the valve responsible for the water supply,
• Disconnect the washing machine from the water supply and sewerage system,
• Remove the top panel of the case (to do this, unscrew a couple of bolts holding it, slide the cover back and pull it up),
• Remove the powder receptacle and set it aside,
• Unscrew the screws located near the dispenser hole,
• Remove the screws holding the control panel,
• Having dealt with the latches, carefully, so as not to tear the wires, remove the “dashboard”,
• Take a photo of the wiring diagram,
• Disconnect the wires from the dashboard and set it aside,
• Remove the screws securing the electronic board,
• Remove the control module from the housing.

Inspect the electronic unit. If the control board is damaged, it will have burn marks, traces of carbon, rust or mechanical defects. Sometimes, to restore the module's operation, it is enough to solder a track or replace a capacitor, but in most cases, the repair will be more complicated and expensive.

The installation of a working, new controller is performed in the reverse order. First, the module is fixed in the case, then all the chips with wires are connected to the control panel. The correctness of the connection of the contacts must be checked using the previously taken photographs.

After assembling the case, connect the machine to the network and check the operation of the "home assistant". If the "brain" responds to all commands given by the user, then the replacement was done correctly. Run a test cycle and observe the equipment.

Is it really necessary to change the module?

Before trying to replace the control unit, it is worth finding out whether it is really out of order. It often happens that the problem is not in the electronic module at all, but in some other broken part, and it is this that creates the illusion of damage to the controller. This is fundamentally important, since if another unit is damaged, then repairing the board will not change anything, and you will throw money down the drain.

How to diagnose a breakdown of the electronic module? There are several typical signs of this malfunction. In 50 percent of cases, washing machines themselves indicate problems with the processor by their behavior. We will tell you in what situations you can suspect problems with the control board.

• The machine cannot wring out items, and the dashboard freezes and does not respond to user commands. The error code is not displayed on the display.
• All the indicators on the dashboard flash randomly, and it is impossible to select and activate a washing program.
• The washing machine allows the user to select the desired program and start washing, but the water intake into the tank does not start, or all the liquid immediately drains by gravity. Then the machine simply "freezes", and only a full reboot helps to bring it back to "life". Moreover, if you reactivate the cycle, it can proceed in the normal mode.
• The machine, regardless of the set program, washes for 2-4 hours without stopping or going to rinse or spin. The pump does not attempt to pump out the waste water from the system. After several hours, the equipment simply freezes.
• After starting, when trying to select the desired program, the machine immediately freezes and turns off.
• The washing mode is selected, the cycle starts, but then the machine does nothing. Water does not fill the system, the drum does not start to rotate.
• The motor changes the speed of the centrifuge very often.
• The heating element ignores the thermostat readings and cannot bring the water in the tank to the desired temperature, leaving it either cool or too hot.

Each of the listed signs may indicate either a breakdown of the main unit or a failure of some sensor. For example, the reason why the water in the tank does not heat up to the required temperature may be a faulty heating element, not an electronic module. Therefore, it is imperative to test the machine.

All modern washing machines are equipped with a self-detection system for faults. First of all, it is recommended to run the automatic machine's autotest, and then, based on the error code issued, perform manual diagnostics of the sensors. How to activate the "test" mode?

Self-diagnostics are launched differently on different washing machines. You can read how to activate the test mode in the instructions for the equipment. The ultra-modern models have a button of the same name on the dashboard, and the user will only need to press it.

For example, on Ardo machines that do not have a separate “Self-diagnostics” button, the auto-test is turned on as follows:

• Urn the program selector to the vertical position so that the arrow points downwards,
• Set the temperature to zero,
• Make sure the machine drum is empty,
• Press all the buttons on the dashboard at the same time.

The error displayed by the washing machine will indicate either a breakdown of the control module or a failure of some other sensor or unit of the automatic machine. If the error code is decoded as "damage to the heating element", then there is no need to get into the electronics, it is enough to check and replace the heating element.

The autotest does not always indicate a specific problem. It happens that after deciphering the error code, the user gets several possible causes: a broken inlet valve, a broken wire, or a malfunction of the control module. Then you will have to check each element manually.

You can make sure that the electronic unit is not functioning correctly by ringing it with a multimeter. Other "suspicious" elements should also be subjected to this procedure. All units are tested with the device one by one, their resistance is measured. Although the work is painstaking, it will allow you to be 100 percent sure that the module is broken.