If the automatic machine has stopped heating the water, most likely the heating element or thermistor has failed. You can replace the components yourself, without resorting to the help of a specialist. We will tell you how to get to the elements, how to remove the temperature sensor on the washing machine, what difficulties you may encounter in the process.
A novice mechanic may need to remove the temperature sensor to diagnose the element. Even more often, the thermistor needs to be removed from the heating element housing to be moved to a new heater. There may be difficulties with removing the part, but with a little effort, the goal will be achieved.
The temperature sensor is installed on the heating element. The element measures the temperature of the water in the tank and transmits this information to the main control module. If the machine washes things in cold water, with other specified cycle parameters, you will have to check both the heater and the thermistor.
To remove the heating element together with the thermostat, you need to:
If you are sure that the heating element is working properly and you only need to remove the temperature sensor for its diagnostics, you can leave the tubular heater itself. Look at what the thermistor is fixed to the element with. The fixation method may differ on different models of washing machines.
For example, in Samsung machines, the thermistor is secured with metal teeth. To remove the temperature sensor, you need to unscrew the nut that holds it, move the plate and sealing rubber as far as possible, insert a screwdriver into the resulting hole and break the teeth. Only then can you remove the thermostat.
On some machines you won't have to break anything. Simply remove the wiring, remove the lock and carefully, rocking movements remove the temperature sensor. If scale prevents you from removing the thermostat, use a syringe to "drive" some dishwashing liquid into the gap.
The resistance of the thermistor is measured using a multimeter. The tester should be switched to the ohmmeter mode and the probes of the device should be placed against the contacts of the temperature sensor. Normal values at room temperature (20-23°C) are approximately 6 thousand Ohms.
Next, you need to immerse the sensor in warm water (50°C), wait until it heats up. Then pull out the thermistor and again apply the device probes to its contacts. If the thermostat is working properly, the readings on the tester screen will drop to 1350 Ohm. If the values are different from the standard, the element will have to be replaced, it cannot be repaired.
Owners of washing machines equipped with a temperature sensor with freon will have a slightly more difficult time. It will be necessary to remove not only the rear panel of the case, but also the front wall with the "dashboard". Due to this, access to the outer part of the thermostat will be provided. The further algorithm of actions will be as follows:
Most often, sensors of this type stop performing their functions due to damage to the freon tube. A leak occurs, and the thermostat cannot work at full capacity. If you find a defect, be sure to replace the part.
The location of the bimetallic sensor is no different from the usual one - it is "hidden" under the washing machine tank. To gain access to the part, you need to partially disassemble the machine body. Having reached the element, you need to disconnect the wiring, remove the thermistor and check its resistance with a multimeter.
After measuring the value at room temperature, warm up the sensor and repeat the test. The indicator on the device screen should decrease significantly. If there is no sharp fluctuation in resistance, you will have to replace the element. Most often, bimetallic temperature sensors stop working due to wear of the plate. The element cannot be repaired. You need to find, buy and install a new part similar to the one removed.
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