Gorenje washing machine door does not open

Gorenje washing machine door does not open

For some time after the end of the wash, the Gorenje machine remains closed - the electronic lock is removed only after 2-3 minutes. The UBL should work, or more precisely, the bimetallic plate located in it should cool down. Only then can the user open the drum door and remove items. If the door in the Gorenje washing machine does not open even after 15-30 minutes from the end of the program, it means that a malfunction has occurred. You will have to look for the cause of the problem by checking the drain system of the machine, as well as the door lock, UBL and control board.

How-to pick-up things from the machine?

With a locked drum full of wet things, diagnostics and repairs cannot be carried out. First you need to empty the washing machine. If 15-30 minutes have passed after finishing the wash, and the door handle does not budge, then you will have to act in emergency mode.

Tactics depend on the situation. If Gorenje has stopped with a full tank, then before opening the hatch, waste water should be pumped into the sewer. Most likely, the board does not activate the UBL due to the presence of liquid in the machine. First of all, we try to launch the appropriate programs: “Rinse”, “Drain” or “Spin”.

If the washer tries to drain the water and makes a buzzing noise, but cannot, you should check the drainage system. The pump may have broken down or become clogged internally. It is necessary to carefully inspect the drainage hose, which is often clogged with debris or pressed down by a heavy object. In the first case, you will need to clean the corrugation with special means, in the second - to free the rubber from “captivity”.

It’s worse if the Gorenje washing machine does not respond to new user commands and does not start the drain mode. You will have to abandon the automation and empty the tank manually. The instructions are as follows:

  • Cover the surrounding area with oilcloth or rags,
  • Prepare a container to collect water,
  • Disconnect the machine from the power supply,
  • Pry off the technical hatch with a screwdriver (it is in the lower right corner of the case),
  • Find a drainage filter - a black or blue plug,
  • Grasp the protruding part of the filter,
  • Unscrew the nozzle, slowly removing it from its seat,
  • Collect the water in a prepared container.

The empty washing machine can be opened. To force open the hatch you will need a long thin rope and a knife. The cord must be inserted into the gap between the door and the body of the machine, pressing it with the tip of a knife. Afterwards, the string is pulled in both directions until a characteristic click is heard from the activated lock. Next, all that remains is to press the door handle and open the drum.

If the method with a rope and a knife does not help, there is another option - to reach the lock through the top of the washer. It is necessary to turn off the power to the machine and unscrew the screws holding the top cover. Then the body of the machine leans back, causing the drum to “unstick” from the front wall. Through the resulting gap, you can reach the UBL with your hand, feel the locking tab and move it to the off position. Eventually the door will open.

Why did this happen?

The water remaining after washing is not the only reason why the washing machine hatch is closed. It is also impossible to unlock the machine if several other problems occur. We are talking about the following situations:

  • Mechanical damage to the door (the door handle or hinges are broken, the lock is out of order),

  • Malfunction of the UBL (natural wear of the bimetallic plate or blockage of the device);
  • Failure in the electronics (perhaps the pressure switch is not working correctly, indicating that the tank is full when in reality it is empty),
  • Failure of the control board (“gorenje’s brains” do not give the UBL a signal to open the door).

To determine the cause of the locked lock, it is necessary to check all possible problems one by one. Diagnostics begins with an inspection of the door and ends with a “diagnosis” of the control board. If you cannot test the machine yourself, it is recommended to contact a service center. Especially if there is a suspicion of a failure in the control module firmware.

Possibly a problem with the lock?

In most cases, problems with closing the door are caused by UBL. The parts of the device wear out over time and stop responding to electric current, which affects the operation of the entire machine. To check the serviceability of the lock, you must first remove it from the housing. We proceed like this:

  • Disconnect Gorenje from communications,
  • Open the hatch,
  • Loosen the outer clamp on the cuff,

  • Insert the rubber band into the drum,
  • Pay attention to the gap between the front panel and the drum - the UBL will be visible there,
  • Unscrew the bolts holding the blocker,
  • Disconnect the connected wiring,

  • Unclench the latches and take out the UBL.

To check the device, more precisely, its thermocouple, you will need a multimeter and an electrical circuit of the lock. We turn on the tester to the “Resistance” mode, touch the phase and neutral probes, and then look at the display. If a three-digit number is displayed, everything is fine. Next, we move one clamp from the phase to the common relay and repeat the measurement. The numbers “0” and “1” indicate a malfunction of the device.

It is useless to repair the UBL - it is easier to buy and install a new blocker. A working device is fixed in the “socket”, connected to the wiring, after which the cuff with a clamp is returned and a test wash is started.