Ariston washing machine hatch will not close

Ariston washing machine hatch will not close

The Ariston washing machine door does not close for many reasons. Sometimes the problem is a lock that does not engage, sometimes it is a broken electronic lock. In any case, the washing will have to be postponed: the board will not start the cycle due to a leaky drum. You will not be able to ignore an opening door; you will have to deal with the problem first. Let us consider in detail how and what to pay attention to.

The internal door mechanism is faulty.

Most often, the hatch of an Ariston washing machine does not close due to mechanical faults and damage. The cause of the breakdown is careless operation of the machine blows to the body, strong slamming of the door and hanging heavy things on it. Due to excessive load, door hinges sag, and locking elements move and break.

The lock and door hinges are responsible for “grabbing” the hatch with the body. If they break, the locking tongue cannot fit into the provided groove, so no clutch occurs. To correct the situation, it is necessary to adjust the position of the door and tighten the side hinges, ensuring a tight fit of the glass to the machine.

If adjusting the door and tightening the hinges did not help, then you will have to replace the damaged elements. The instructions are as follows:

  • Disconnect the machine from the power supply,
  • Loosen the hinges securing the door to the washing machine body,

  • Lift the door and remove it from the grooves,
  • Unscrew the bolts around the perimeter of the inside of the hatch,
  • Halve the door (it is important to “crack” the structure in several places at once so as not to break the plastic),
  • Unscrew the hinges,

  • Install new hinges,
  • Assemble the door,
  • Secure the door to the machine body.

In addition to the hinges, the locking tabs in the lock often break. In this case, their replacement is also indicated: you will have to disassemble the door, dismantle the old “hook,” and install a new one. Afterwards the structure is assembled and tested.

It is another matter if the hatch on the Ariston does not open. This happens when an attempt to suddenly open the drum after washing results in the handle breaking. To fix the machine, you will first have to “break” the lock, and then unlock the machine. The sequence is:

  • Press the power button three times, activating the emergency hatch opening function,
  • Empty the drum,
  • Remove the door from its hinges,
  • Halve the door by unscrewing the bolts holding it together,
  • Remove glass,

  • Find and dismantle the rod holding the handle (it is enough to push a long wire or nail into the bolt, prying up and sliding the latch from the groove),
  • Remove the handle,
  • Install a new handle into the “socket,”
  • Assemble the door and return it to its place.

For repairs, it is recommended to use only original spare parts. A replacement is selected based on the serial number of the Ariston washing machine.

Foreign object in the lock

The machine does not lock due to a blockage in the UBL. The hatch locking device works in tandem with a heating resistor: the resistance increases as the temperature increases. When washing stops, the degrees inside the appliance drop, so the locking elements with contacts return to their original position. If the sensor is clogged, then everything goes wrong - the levers do not fit into the grooves, the system is not blocked.

The repair in this case looks like this:

  • The washing machine is disconnected from communications,
  • UBL is taken out of the car,
  • The device is inspected and cleaned of debris and dust,
  • The blocker returns to its place.

The UBL is located inside the machine - behind the body opposite the door handle. To get to it, you will need to partially disassemble the washing machine. Step-by-step instructions are given below.

The lock is faulty.

In addition to the mechanical lock, all washing machines, including Ariston, have an electronic lock - UBL. When the cycle starts, the board supplies current to it: under voltage, one of the structural elements heats up, the temperature inside rises, the key plate bends, clicks and blocks the hatch. At the end of the wash, everything goes in reverse: the mechanism cools down, the plate straightens and the lock snaps off. If the blocker does not work, the program will not start for security reasons.

UBL breaks down for a number of reasons. More often, the bimetallic plate is to blame, which wears out over time, breaks, and stops responding to temperature changes. Factory defects, blockages and short circuits also lead to failure.

It is irrational to repair the blocker - it is cheaper to buy a new one. The instructions on what to do to replace the UBL look like this:

  • The washing machine is disconnected from the power supply,
  • The drum opens,
  • The clamp on the cuff is pryed up with a screwdriver, loosened and removed (first external, then internal),

  • The cuff is tightened,
  • The bolts holding the lock on both sides are unscrewed,
  • The lock is removed from the body (through the hole between the drum and the front wall),

  • The wiring connected to the UBL is disconnected,
  • A new blocker is inserted into the socket,
  • UBL is connected and fixed with bolts,
  • The cuff is pulled over the edge of the drum and secured with clamps,
  • The test wash starts.

If it is not possible to get the UBL through the hole between the drum and the body, then we act through the top cover. Remove the panel and tilt the machine back. We insert our hand into the resulting gap and remove the blocker.

Something happened to the wiring.

If you have problems with the hatch locking, you should also pay attention to the wiring. The power supply to the washing machine may be interrupted. Consequently, the main electrical components, sensors, board, selector and UBL are not able to work.

Several reasons can lead to damage to the wiring:

  • The machine drum is clogged with debris,
  • The drainage filter is clogged (water is not able to be drawn in and pumped out of the tank),
  • The drive belt has fallen off or broken,
  • The pump is jammed.

If there is a problem with the wiring, the washing machine is not blocked by the UBL - it simply does not work without voltage. Also, the lack of electricity affects the dashboard: the LEDs and display do not light up, the machine is “silent” and does not respond to commands.

To understand the electronics, it is necessary to conduct a comprehensive diagnosis. Each element of the chain is checked:

  • Socket (the electrical outlet often burns out, so you need to disassemble it and evaluate it with a multimeter),
  • Power cord (check if the plug and cable are intact),
  • Fps (interference filter burns out during power surges),
  • Control board,
  • Dashboard buttons.

Be sure to check the presence of light in the apartment. The central power supply may have been turned off and you just need to wait.

The control module does not give the UBL command.

Modern control boards are sensitive to voltage surges. A sharp rise or fall can lead to firmware failure and burnout of microcircuits, after which the module will no longer work correctly. Often on Ariston, a breakdown is manifested by a missing lock. The unit does not send a signal to close the door, the washing machine remains open, and the cycle does not start.

It is strongly not recommended to evaluate and repair the control board yourself. At most, you are allowed to inspect the module and try to find traces of burning or mechanical damage. For comprehensive diagnostics, flashing and repair of the electronic unit, you should contact a service center.